We went to visit the Friedberg castle gardens, which
have been recently reopened to the public
after undergoing extensive reconstruction.
The city is rightly proud of the result, and there
are guided tours to be had about the history of the
building and garden. Unfortunately, storm Xynthia has torn off the
top of the castle's landmark tower in February, somewhat spoiling the view.
The castle garden currently also hosts
an exhibition of photographs about the visit of
Tsar Alexander II and his family, who stayed at the castle
for three months in 1910.
The last Russian Tsar Nicolas II met his future wife Alix,
Princess of Hesse and by Rhine,
when he was sixteen and she was twelve and the couple got married ten years later,
even though both families had originally had other plans for
them. They first had four daughters before Tsarevich Alexei was born.
Unfortunately, Alix carried the curse of the European Royal
Houses, hemophilia, into the family, a condition that was generally
fatal at the time. The constant worries over her son's health led
not only to desperate measures, such as the introduction of
the mystic Rasputin to the St.Petersburg court, but also
to a poor health of her own, which to improve the family
decided to spend a summer at the spa resort of Bad Nauheim.
Proper accommodation was found in Alix's brother's (Grand Duke
Ernst Ludwig) summer
residence, the castle in neighboring Friedberg
(this sort of arrangement seems to be a tradition
with the two towns; when Elvis Presley was stationed
in Friedberg he took up residence at a hotel in Bad Nauheim).
The period of European history from about 1850 up to the First World War
was either not covered in my history classes at school,
or I completely forgot about it. But since Cissy is
extremely interested in this era (especially as it concerns
the various royal families), I am catching up with it now.
This is a lot of fun, because these events occurred not all that
long ago, and sometimes geographically just around the corner.
Many of the protagonists are just one generation
removed from celebrities that are still with us, there is
a lot of authentic material such as photos, letters, and newspaper articles,
people spoke languages still being used today,
and they already used trains, cars, planes, and electricity
back then, so that their lifestyle is also closer to us than that
of, say, a Roman general.
The photo exhibition in the castle garden
includes many pictures of the three boys;
Tsarevich Alexei, and the Grand Duke's sons Georg and Ludwig.
This is somewhat tragic, as both of their families
would meet disaster during the following years.
Alexei and his whole family (including his sister Anastasia)
were murdered by the Bolshevik revolution in 1918
(which led to the Russian Orthodox Church declaring
them saints in 2000).
And shortly after the Grand Duke's death in 1937,
a plane carrying Georg and almost the whole family
to Ludwig's wedding in London crashed in Belgium,
killing everyone on board. Ludwig's marriage would
remain childless.